Archive for the 'LBS News' category
‘Who Shot The Sheriff’ as we go ‘Finding Nemo’
July 29, 2009 12:54 pmHello and welcome to our website. Please click on this link to be taken directly to the latest images from our year long round the world tour and remember to have a read of the latest travel commentary below. Files W117 to W123 are new
http://www.lazyblueskies.com/wp/wpg2-2?g2_itemId=19077&g2_page=2
PART ONE
‘SHARK SHARK’ someone yelled, ‘Really big SHARK!’. Actually what they yelled was more like, ‘Blarp, Blarp, blub blub Blarp’ because we were Scuba Diving at about 18 metres down. To describe what it feels like to see a shark in its natural environment is quite easy, it is natural, scary, scary as hell but very natural. For sure you feel a bit like old Jacques Ceusteaux but it just gives you an incredible sense of freedom. Like I said in the last commentary, you are almost totally weightless and you can hover like spirit as you watch whatever it is you are watching, be it a 3 legged Turtle called George, or a Blue Spotted Ray or even some funny little Clown Fish or Moray Eel. I don’t want to sound like a tree hugging hippy but when you actually stop and take time to watch something as simple as the symbiotic relationship between a Clown Fish and the anemone that it lives in, it truly is a wonder of nature.
Essentially the anemone is deadly to any other fish, bar the Clown Fish. Its tentacles contain a paralytic enzyme that kills all other fishes. However, the Clown Fish is permitted to live death free providing that it first feeds and protects the anemone before feeding itself. You tend to watch with curiosity and disbelief as these funny little things take food and rush back to the anemone and feed it before their own young. Imagine if you you lived at home but you had to feed/clean/look after your house mate or you would be on pain of death? Kinda reminds me of the ex-wife.
Although, I guess one of the main reasons for wanting to dive is to push your comfort zone a bit further than you normally would. I keep reminding myself that for the first 9 months of my life I was breathing underwater inside my Mum, and of course being a Piscean it is the most natural thing to do, to want to be in or around the water. I just feel, safe for want of a better word even though being really quite claustrophobic sometimes I find swim through’s a bit difficult.
So as you plop over the side of the dive boat and head down to 20 metres or so below the surface of the water certain things do go through your mind. Of course it’s to conserve air, it is keep an eye on your buddy and not get lost but also it is that you are not in your own environment. Stuff gets bigger the deeper you go, teeth get sharper, things happen more quickly, so when Mr Shark decides to appear right next to you bubbles seem to find a way of escaping from the back of my board shorts. Another funny thing is Muslims. Seriously, Muslim snorkellers. Imagine if you will a deserted beach and palm trees and coconut groves and there coming out of the water in a full black, head to toe Burka, looking like a bloody SAS penguin in flippers is a Muslim snorkeller fully equipped with pink snorkel and blue face mask and bright Tango Orange life vest.
As I write this I have gone from a snorkeller to a PADI Open Water Diver and now onto an Advanced Open Water Diver with extended qualifications in Wreck Diving. All quite worrying when you think that Blondie doesn’t even let me look after the remote control to the television. Hoe hum, but maybe I have finally found what I am good at and what I am going to retrain as, Padi Dive Master is the next step and I might just come back out and spend the Winter learning to be one…watch this space. It just sort of becomes a bit addictive when you know that in the water here, normally less than 200 metres away from where we are diving at one spot lives a Bull Shark, and at another there is a Tiger Shark but probably best of all at the wreck that we dived there is a Whale Shark. I will keep you posted on sightings.
Speaking of posts, this is the penultimate post of our travels so it is going to be a long one. They take so much time to prepare and edit that it was starting to take over a bit hence the drop in frequency. Also as you may have noticed, the quality of images if getting harder as my Canon camera is absolutely naffed and now after a virus got into my laptop photo editing is almost impossible (new camera and new laptop when we get home).
Yes it is true, after an incredible 11 months on the road we are now desperately trying to deny the fact that in less than 20 days we will be sitting at Bangkok Airport heading back from Heathrow and then good Old Bournemouth 367 days after we left. I have been putting together some statistics of our travels which I will let you see next time but it makes for quite incredible reading. So far we have crossed over 34 borders and been through a whopping 16 Countries. Are we reading to come back? Are we prepared for the credit crunch? Are we looking forward to it? Well I am sure you can work that out for yourselves. In short, No, No and NO. I always try to be careful when I write these things that I don’t sound all flash and devil-may-care in my attitude as I realise there are lots of people far less fortunate than us but when you lose your dream job, your dream flat by the beach and your Mum all within 6 months it just kind of makes you stop and realise that life is a one hit game. And, whilst we’ve still managed to keep a few shekels in the bank that it is time to keep on the road for a while yet. We have no idea what we are going to do but it is going to be great to catch up and see what difference a year makes to people. Personally I am terrified of going back and I really don’t know how I am going to deal with it. I have not once heard anyone say these words, ‘I am glad to be home’ unless of course it was Terry Waite or Nelson Mandela.
Okay, so since the last post we have gone up through Viet Nam and stopped off for a few days at the marvelous spectacle that is Ha Long Bay (where Top Gear ended up on their motorised scooters). This is a bay with close on 2000 island stacks that rise eerily out of the silent water to tower above you encircled by swooping Sea Eagles. We took a cruise on a Junk and headed out across the bay. The images with all the stripes and lights are captured by my camera by hand with no special camera trick other than turning the flash off at night and moving the camera from side to side whilst pointing it at another Junk moored next to us. Of course copies are available if anyone wants one.
Hanoi was really quite a sight with its million motorbikes and cyclos. It is known in Viet Nam as The Motorcycle City and we fully understand why. Morning, noon and night the City buzzes to the sound of honking and hooting. In our entire time in Viet Nam and Cambodia we did not see a single person fall off, until that was we arrived in Hanoi. At almost our first set of traffic lights a dude came skittering passed us and in slow motion bounced off the pavement and then drove face first into a rather large and rather stationary lamppost. I nearly wet myself. Then driving along another road this dude came spinning down the road on his bottom and then his face as he fell off in the rain. A real shame that I didn’t have the camera on as it would have made £500 from the fat bird on ‘You’ve Been A Cock’.
Getting to Hanoi from Hue was quite a journey. We decided that after being on a night bus where saw other buses crashing and various drivers falling asleep at the wheel we chose to let the train take the strain…mmm, yeah right. So a 15 hour train ride followed but our 2nd Class carriage turned out to have no seats, just fold down beds. Oh and not 4 people that we expected but none less than 6 people in our tiny little room. Daniel and Sara who we had been travelling with for almost a month managed to get a bunk with 4 people but it really didn’t matter one jot to Daniel who had gone to the local Pharmacy and purchased himself a carrier bag full of Diazepam which he was gleefully munching through the contents of like it was a bag of Smarties without a care in the world. Sara’s comment was great, she said, ‘he’s just sitting there staring at me looking stupid’, well after 4 cupfuls of Diazepam I was surprised he wasn’t sitting up on the roof looking at the stars. When they finally left and flew home we really missed them. The drugs here though are quite incredible, you just can get what ever you want over the counter, Morphine, Diazapam, Viagra, and it’s all strictly legal!! Not our cup of tea but its quite unreal that you just self diagnose and got to the pharmacy and just say, give me 5 of those, 4 of those and a box of those!u
They have a bizarre fruit in Asia called the Poo Fruit (Durien). It is sort of like a large spiky conker but it stinks, and I really do mean it stinks. Actually it stinks to a level that could only be matched by sticking your head down a toilet of a nursing home at 9am on a busy day when the choice of menu on the previous day was fish curry followed by cold bake beans and rotting cabbage. Truly the smell is vomit inducing but they all seem to love it. But where ever they eat it or carry it, it just makes you want to splurge. One trick that you learn whilst travelling is to be able to block your nose and hold your breath for 30 seconds at any given point.
Viet Nam, was wonderful. The people, the places, the sights, the sounds. Now without touching on political things it just seems to come back to the common denominator as we travel around the world, the Yanks, The USA, the Americans have got a lot to answer for. As the 10’s of kms turn into 100’s and then a couple of 1000kms as you travel from Ho Chi Minh City in the South up to Hanoi in the North you start to realise the utter crassness and stupidity to the burger munchers. What I mean by this is that Viet Nam has a lot of people, a lot of damn hard working people. The terrain is incredible and yet the Yanks thought they could take on these people and win. Experience in travel sort of opens your eyes to stuff that you can’t get from books. It is only when you sit and look at a mountain that cost the lives of 1000’s of Vietnamese and hundreds of Yanks, all for what? Can anyone tell me what they were actually fighting for? The war museums or more to the point war crimes museums as they like to call them are so propagandist that it just makes you laugh out loud, but, you cannot dispute what the Yanks did to people. You cannot deny the effects of what Agent Orange has done to these people as you still see things that you just try to look away from. Like I said before, when you come face to face with a man with no face, or someone with no arms or even half of their head missing, you cannot help but stop and think to yourself, is this acceptable? But then what do I know.
So, we were going to go into Laos but I wasn’t feeling great and to be honest the friends that had just covered the mammoth 46 hours of chicken busses, dug out canoes and mules rides all to go and float down a river with drunk back packers just seemed a bit too much, so we flew. Yup, we flew the 3 hours all the back down to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia where we stayed in a nice hotel for a few days whilst buying Marc Jacobs handbags, Aviator Sunglasses for £2 and of course more hooky DVD’s than old Dell Boy himself could muster from ‘Darn The Market Geeza’.
So, having a bit of time on our hands I got to speaking to a few other Professional Photographers and it turns out that Asia Geographic are having a huge photography competition based in Singapore. Now I’m not great at entering competitions as if I don’t win I take it personally and cry for days but Blondie has been working on me over the years and we have submitted a small portfolio that is really quite strong even if I do brag so myself. So time will tell. Being a Pro and earning money from images is a funny thing. It’s not something that I really talk about but as I make more money from it the desire to get ‘that one shot’ increases. The names of the famous snappers over the years don’t stick in your mind but the images do. For example, if I said Photographer Steve McCurry and Model Sharbat Gula you would most likely look blankly at your computer screen.
If I told you that it wasn’t a posed image captured in a studio but was a bloke walking through a town in Afghanistan who just looked up, focused, and pressed the trigger and now it is one of the most iconic images ever captured on film (that funny old format we used to use) again if I said Jeff Widener you probably wouldn’t remember his name but if you think of the man standing in front of the tanks in Tiennemen Square in China you will remember one of the most iconic image of the 20th Century but the images record history and that’s what I want to do. At some point, at some time in the future, I really want the camera in my hand to record a moment in time that is remembered for all time. That’s my aim, well as a friend of mine used to say, ‘Aim for the stars and crash into the bushes’.
Image courtesy of Steve McCurry
PART TWO
After Kuala Lumpur we went to the incredible and fairly isolated Perhentian Islands off Malaysia’s East coast. A truly quiet and deserted island where the only thing to do is snorkel, dive and run away from the giant Monitor Lizards in the jungle. If these things bite you their dribble is highly toxic and causes immediate shock and agonising pain followed by death, kind of akin once again to dealing with the ex-wife. I took another PADI Scuba course and am now qualified as an Emergency First Responder with AED (Heart Defibrillation), I got 99% but then to be fair after 7 years ferrying fraggles in the ambulance service I would expect no less. So, my path to becoming a Professional Scuba Diver is on course. I’m not entirely sure what my goal is but studying again after so long is quite good fun. My Mum always used to say that if I liked something then I could set myself to do almost anything. It kind of makes you wonder where my life would have been if I had gone through with my dream of being a C130 Hercules Pilot in the RAF, now there is a scary thought. Skono The Bomber.
So, after diving in the Perhentian Islands and meeting some really cool people like Sicco, Alet, Jono and a Sea Otter called ‘Beaver’ we headed back to KL and then onto Thailand and the wonderful remote and isolated island of Phuket and Patong Beach. Of course I am joking. This place was akin to Eastern Australia. I don’t mean to be controversial and I am really sorry if this upsets anyone (Ted M please don’t ban us from the island), well this is no more controversial with my writing than I normally am but it is vile, just vile. Sixty and Seventy year old men walking around with girls who barely look old enough to be out of school uniform, then there are the social misfits that come here to buy-a-girl-for-the-week and man are they trying to give them ‘their fill’. Everywhere you look there are ‘Kevin’ types fawning over Thai girls and just not giving a damn about it. It is not an uncommon sight to see geek’s and freakily unattractive people all but having ruddies everywhere you look. As you walk along the beach road in Patong (a region of Phuket -pronounced POO GET by the way) you just see these types sitting there licking the faces of the girl sitting there saying ‘love you long time, you so funny, you take me home, me very good, give you massage’. I know this is a bit of a stupid thing to say having worked in London and having had clients in SOHO so I’m well used to seeing ladies of the night but here it is just a bit worse, quite a lot worse.
For example, I went out to the 7-11 store (oh Blondie actually asked me what time the 7-11 opened, that would be a 2:1 from Uni that would be????) so there I was walking down the road passed one of these massage parlours where they all sit outside offering you all sorts of things. Well trust me when I say this, when 12 women all dressed in micro-dresses and lycra boob tubes all tell you that you are so handsome and big that ‘they all do you for free all at once as a special’ it made me act like Ron ‘The Truncheon’ Jeremy him very self!!!!!! Actually, I screamed out loud, dropped my bag of shopping, tripped up the kerb, narrowly avoided delivering a particularly nasty head butt to the oldest one who was about 16 and ended up running through my hotel lobby opting to take the 8 flights of stairs in 39c rather than running the risk of waiting for the lift, 12 women I say, 12, all at once, 12 women! I don’t think even Simon ‘Redtube’ Plummer could muster that much testosterone, well, I wouldn’t have more than a tenner on it actually after his current World Record! (Norris McSquirter must be turning in his grave wanting to record this one)
Well another incident was when we went out for a quiet evening silflay (yes that is a word) and we were approached by a guy Thai chappie who thrust a clipboard under our noses yelling ‘PING-PONG’ at the top of his excited voice. ‘You watch PING-PONG SHOW’. I explained to him that I wasn’t really into Ping-Pong and further went onto explain that I was more of a Tennis man myself, even demonstrating my quality backhand. Bizarrely he then told me that this was not a problem as rather than producing a PING-PONG ball from her vagina that his ‘lady’ would…….and I quote…….’POO A BANANA for an extra £2.30′, what can you say to that? I mean really, what can you say to that? I suggest that next time any of you are in a senior management meeting, Orange guys listen up, seriously, try this one. The next time someone in the meeting is being difficult and everyone is searching for a business critical solution then just stand up, straighten your shirt and tie before stating, ‘I could always poo a banana or fire a ping-pong ball out of my fanny’……er actually, that is possible why I no longer sit in on those meetings. Ahh those sweet memories of actually suggesting to the Director of Orange Customer Services that he pay for me to have a Chauffeur driven car.
Oh before I forget, congratulations to Blondie who is now officially a ‘PAID MODEL’. Some of our images are now being used in magazine and marketing around the world such as this one (Yes that is her coming out of the water all Bo Derek styliee)
Anyhoo, back to Patong Beach. Now for those of you that love Phuket just skip this bit as no offence is meant and this is just my opinion. But this place was just strange. The next time you deal with your IT department and you look at all those freaky looking people, those guys who just live quietly and don’t get noticed, those guys that you see standing at the bus stop holding a plastic bag with ’stuff’ in it, those people who don’t go to the gym, those guys who don’t go to the office party, those guys who just fade-to-grey, well they come here and get laid. Simple as that, they save up there money, tuck their T-shirts into their tight shorts and get on a plane and come here to cruise the streets. I mean even Stephen Hawkins could get laid here. It is just where Nigel and Gavin from accounts go on holiday to have adult relations with young women. I know people have a right to have it off, or ‘Bonk’ as Nick Clements always used to say but these people just have no decorum and they just do not know how to act with women.
As we sat and watched people walking passed the restaurant we were eating at a rough snap shot of people walking by put it at 70% white male with Thai female 100 times more attractive than them and in most cases less half their age. I would love to know what goes through their minds. For sure, old men’s wives die and they are lost so they look for company with no strings, for sure there are people who cannot interact with women and choose to pay for it, that’s all perfectly understandable but what I don’t get is the comments that you hear people saying as they walk down the roads. Horrible, just horrible. Right moving on.
It is a,(add a long thinking pause) a bizarre place. This place was utterly destroyed by the awful Tsunami a few years ago. You just walk into shops and faded photographs show waves crashing onto the beach as high as trees and terrified people running for their lives in every direction. The aftermath shows people riding jet-skis up the road that we are staying on, even to this day signs of the devastation are not that too hard to find, and yet, when destroyed, they rebuilt, they rebuilt into a seedy, sordid nasty little hub of nothingness. Don’t get me wrong, if ever Fanny Ping-Pong firing games become an Olympic sport I am in absolutely no doubt whatsoever that these fine young ladies will be able to fire a fanny ball at over one hundred paces, but for the time being, if it’s all the same! The thing that made me laugh the most was these guy offering all their nasty little shows didn’t offer the shows to me, the offered it to Blondie. Apparently they must have had a problem with the front doors to their shows and they said we, ‘Guarantee you back door entry?’
One small thing that we just don’t get about Thailand is this, you can get a hotel room as big as any Hilton suite that I have ever stayed in at over £1000 per night for, ready for this, less than £20 a night, but a beer costs £5, breakfast costs £5, sunscreen costs over £10, and even the hooky gear costs more than the real gear in the UK, like I said, a weird place. One of the great things though is that you get a pool on the roof so to avoid being hassled on the beach all the time you can just sit there and chill watching the world go by from the safety of the roof. Although when this happened I felt pretty terrible. There was a young kid playing with an American football in the pool all by himself. He was possibly about 6 years old. He was from Nepal and was just having fun as kids do. He threw the ball and it landed near me, so I threw it back, and then he threw it back until a game ensued. He was pretty good and I was pretty useless so I just started messing around.
As I yelled at him to go long he just sort of looked away. From the second I threw the ball I knew it was going to go wrong. The kid looked away at something just as I threw my hardest and most vicious and accurate throw of the whole game. As the ball got closer to him he still didn’t look back at me, right until the ball was about 12 inches from his face. I just had enough time to see his eyes widen in fear as the ball thundered into his 6 year old face. In slow motion the pointy end of the ball smacked into his chops right between the eyes felling him like a small tree hit by a lorry. The worst thing that you can do apparently when you almost kill someone else’s child is to get a fit of the giggles. The father who witnessed the vicious ball v’s face incident glared at me as I left the pool and sat back on my sun lounger with Blondie tutting at me as I did so calling me a child killer.
Oh and as I write this something has just happened right outside our hotel that sort of backs up what I said about Patong……a man just got shot dead. Yes that would be dead, deceased, no more, gone, finished, ‘ello Polly, dead. Apparently four people were shot in a Thai Mafia dispute over land, so that’s nice. Unfortunately, when we were in the hotel we managed to break a glass, as you do. When I told the guy on reception he went absolutely nuts. Seriously, he was hysterical and kept yelling at me to pay something like £20 for the 50p cup. Unlike me I stayed really calm and told him he was being a ’silly little man’. At which point he went super-hyper-ballistic and started leaping up and down on the spot, which of course I found funny - he didn’t. Then he starts yelling at me to go outside and ‘KICK-BOX’, which, regrettably made me chuckle even more that this man the size of a 12 year old wanted to fight me.
Now I’m not small, and I’m not afraid of many people (having been beaten senseless at school most days by boys much bigger than me, unless he was going to take a poo in my back-back or give a particularly nasty wedgie or god forbid Read Admiral - I wasn’t really bothered). I have even studied Kick-Boxing myself and not a lot of people know this but I even have a couple of Belts to my name, and have been taken around the ring a few times, er, as is in had a few in the ring, hang on that still doesn’t sound right?? Anhoo he then ran off to get something that I guessed was either a gun or a stick, so I told him to send the Police up to my room when they arrived but asked him to wait for a bit as I wanted a nice bath, at which point he nearly disappeared up his own bottom with rage. Silly little man but still highly entertaining just laughing at a very angry person, try it.
However, the very next day, after the shooting and the Kung-Fu dwarf we got on a bus to take us right from Thailand’s West coast to the Island on the East coast called Koh Samui. Well, we had been on the bus for about 25 minutes when two guys sitting opposite Blondie pulled out a handgun. Yes, that was a handgun. Not a handbag, a handgun. And no ordinary handgun, a 9mm GLOCK. Now she saw it first and asked me if it was real. Well it is a bit difficult to tell unless it’s in your hand as replicas are so good nowadays, but when I saw the butt of the gun I said that it was a fake as it didn’t have the 20+ round of ammunition magazine inserted into it. At which point, bloke number 2 then opens up his fanny pack sitting on his lap and pulls out a fully loaded magazine (complete with 20+ rounds of ammunition), he then thumbs the top round in the magazine to make sure its free and sprung loads…………………and then…………….he pushes the magazine into the butt of the gun and loads the bloody thing. There we are, sitting on a bus in Thailand 15 hours after 4 people are shot (1 dead) right outside our hotel, and there, less than 3 feet away, are two blokes with a loaded semi-automatic handgun, a 9mm handgun with the stopping power of an elephant against a tree, and it’s pointing in our direction, just sitting there on his lap, safety on thank God .
Now, here’s the thing. Terrorist attacks in Jakarta, same in the Philippines, bombs in Bali, and there we are in Phuket. What do you do? Well Mr Andy McNab, Mr Chris Ryan and even Dave Courtney come to that taught me a thing or two and they all say the same thing, ‘If someone pulls a shooter they have to have the balls to use it, but if they pull it on, you have a choice, make the first move, or let them make the first move and then make yours super fast.’ So, Im sitting there in my boardshorts and flip-flops (actually they were flip-flips, I managed to get two left feet ones), but what do you do? Seriously? What do you do? Do you jump up and yell GUN and risk being shot Forest Gump stylie in arse? Do you grab the gun and risk shooting off your own testicles in the ensuing madness? Or do you just sit there? Answer, the latter. One hour later he just calmly gets off the bus, 20 minutes later his mate with the bigger fanny pack also gets off and the guns were gone.
We told the man at the bus station when we got off and he went white. ‘Very bad, very bad, very very bad, why you not tell driver? This happen before and very not good’ oh thanks for that I thought. So, we aren’t sure what happened and whether we just used up a life but I can tell you, looking a loaded semi-automatic handgun, and a 9mm GLOCK at that, at less than 3 feet away with the ‘noisy end’ pointing at us is right up there in the scary travel stories.
On a nicer note Blondie and I celebrated our 4th Anniversary together a few weeks ago so Happy Anniversary to my wonderful girl.
Well now that our incredible year long, around the world tour is almost at an end we have had people asking us lots of questions about the trip, so we thought the best thing to do would be to give you some fact-stats. Everyone always asks, ‘Which was the best bit?’, or ‘Where did you like the most?’ and it is just too hard to tell so next time you will get all the answers.
So all that remains to say is thoughts to all of you with Swine Flu, best regards, welcome to all of our new followers and see you in a couple of weeks with our last travel commentary, until the next one!
Love
Chris and Blondie xx
Currently in Koh Samui, Thailand
Categories: LBS News
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‘Good Morning Vietnam’ through Thailand, Malaysia into Cambodia
June 23, 2009 4:42 pmPlease click here to be taken directly to the latest batch of images from our World Tour
http://www.lazyblueskies.com/wp/wpg2-2?g2_itemId=19077&g2_page=1 New files W109 > W116
‘This where the Rocket Propelled Grenade (RPG) bounced off Temple floor then slammed into the 1000 year old wall’ said the Cambodian tourist guide. Of course he was too young to have actually been there during the fighting, but at almost half my age the terrifying part was he was alive during the War. Then he says, ‘Look here, these holes, they come from AK47′ (Kalashnikov AK47 Automatic Assault Rifle). He looks at the floor and shakes his head, he looks up sadly and says, ‘Many people die here in very bad fighting’. I touch the holes in the wall and peer out through the ornate window trying to see where the rounds came in from and there, on the other side of the moat is a small clearing in the trees. I speak not of a War fought many years ago, I speak not of a War where most people who fought are old and dying or dead, no, I speak of a War that was fought between 1975 and ended incredibly only a few years ago when we were all still dancing to Kajagoogoo, wearing our Ray Ban’s and just discovering this new Fast Food place called MacDonalds.
I am going to keep this commentary as light as possible but personally I had no idea what happened just a few short years ago. If this sort of thing is not for you then skip down to where you see this ######### and the fun will continue, but please try and read a bit. For example, I did not know that between 1975 and 1980 The Kymer Rouge (Communists) murdered an estimated 2 Million Cambodian people through torture, execution, starvation, disease and forced labour. To put that into perspective, that is One Forth of the entire population of Cambodia.
As we travelled from Thailand into Cambodia we did not really know what to expect and we were certainly in for quite a surprise. The land is exactly what you would think of when someone says to you to close your eyes and think of CAMBODIA. The people are short and sort of funny looking but always seem to be smiling and doing, stuff. Everyone is working no matter if they are young or old. Very akin to South America there is a very strong work ethic and the towns bustle along all day and night in a dizzying hub of electricity and smoke from little road side street vendors selling their sweat and tasty goods from doughy dumpling things with a fine mince paste in the middle up to green things that come wrapped in leaves and tied in a little bow with some vine leaf. I do not know the names of what I am eating, I do not know if it went ‘Woof -Baaa- or Meow’ when it was alive but it tastes great. It tastes fresh and really fills us up. It becomes a funny cycle of poke it with a chopstick, tentatively poke your tongue into it and then smile or spit, there seems to be nothing in between. I truly can say that I have eaten some of the best food I have ever tasted in this wonderful country.
Armed with a Lonely Planet guide book and a waving arm we seem to manage to convey most instructions or questions to our new little friends. ‘AMERICAN’ they yell at us. ‘DO YOU MIND!!’ we shout back, ‘British I’ll have you know’. Then always the same exchange ensues, ‘Manchester United - Lovely Jubbly - London Capital City - Jade Goody’……..hang the fluff on a minute? Jade Goody? Jade Goody? What The Fluff? How I ask you? How? And crossing the road becomes a very real game of virtual Frogger as you move from lane to lane desperately trying not to get hammered by one of the 2,000,000 plus mopeds that act like small rocket ships with jet engines blasting around the cities, town, and fields at a million miles an hour.
With a couple of 6 hour stints spent bouncing along various degrees of roads/garden paths in a bus we arrive at Siem Reap. For those more astute amongst you, this is the home of the great Angkor Wat Temples. (The largest religious Temple in the World stretching some 25 km). For those less astute and slightly more, Playstation, this is where they filmed none other than Miss Two Guns Angelina Jolie running around shooting stuff in, ‘TOMB RAIDER’. Also for the more, romantic amongst you, where they filmed the beautiful Disney movie ‘The Two Brothers’. Angkor Wat is the Buddhist equivalent of Mecca. After walking around for 2 complete days and seeing/climbing on around and through many of the Temples we came to the incredible decision that Angkor Wat is as beautiful and awe inspiring as Machu Pichu itself. The Two comparisons as so completely diverse yet they seem to have a unique draw that is difficult to describe and really needs to be witnessed to understand. It just captures a sublime blend of 1000 year old intricacy of craftmanship. Unlike places we have visited whereby the builders were forced at whip-point to build stuff, these sites just seem to have a finer detail where people loved the Gods so much that they truly worshipped their work and you really get a feel for the love created in each and every room/chamber you walk into. Bugger Me I sound like Darius ‘How much love is there in this room! Danesh’ (aka Pop Idol self abuser).
I will let the images speak for themselves at this point. There are lots but then, it is ranked as The Eighth Wonder Of The World so will form part of a large album/book.
Moving South again on a honking and hooting 6 hour jaunt of sheer terror on a bus we narrowly missed in excess of 3000 mopeds, 4 cows, several 100 chickens and a dog that bounced off the windscreen we finally arrived in the berserk hub that is Phnom Penh. With stories of torture and death ringing in our ears and minds from the books the every street sellers pimps to you at every turn we see the million mopeds, dirt, dust, heat, stench, sweat, sewage, rats, posh restaurants, Tuk Tuk’s, funny looking chicken things all strung up by their back legs hanging off the handle bars of bicycles and before we know it we are, thrust from the silence and calmness of the country to the utter madness that is the city. Here’s a question, if you need to get two large pigs to market and they have to be a) alive and b) all you have is a moped how do you do it? Answer below. Live piggies remember. Also what makes us crack up laughing is when you see someone with a moped and a 3 seater sofa on the back, or a filing cabinet, or even an 8 foot tall pane of glass!
We tentatively booked a Tuc Tuc with a funny looking bloke called October, and headed off with our new found travel buddies Sara ‘Where-Are-They-Going’ Williams and Daniel ‘That’s-L-Not-C’ Lunt. We bounce through the dusty streets to a place named simply, The Killing Fields. Some of you may have seen the film of the same name about the American Journalist and Dith Pran who covered the Cambodian War. If you haven’t, go and rent it on DVD. When we walked through the gates a silent hush deafens the air. The birds seem not to sing here, the grass seems reluctant to grow and people walk in a humble way that cries dignity and rage all in one breath. Heart breaking signs of pity and devastation detail how in a small field some 17,000 men, women, children and babies were executed. In 1980 the 129 mass graves were exhumed and a glass sided monument filled with some 9000 skulls. This bit is harrowing so skip on if you want.
Sir Winston Churchill I believe once said ‘Lest We Forget’ and the Cambodian people silently follow these thoughts. ‘We must never forget and we must always make sure the world knows what happened here’, said a haunted looking man to me as I shook my head at the thought of what had happened at this place of execution. As we walked along a little path that wound its way around the big holes in the ground, marked simply by many signs saying ‘MASS GRAVE - 600 bodies’ we noticed that there were torn rags of cloths coming through the dry earth, and upon closer inspection we noticed that what we thought were white sticks sticking up out of the ground were actually bones, human bones. The entire area is littered with bones, skulls and things that we choose not to look at too closely. I am going to stop here as what we saw was just simply too horrifying for words and the most harrowing thing that I have ever seen. Bizarrely , situated right next to the Killing Fields there is a school and echoing across the grounds as we left were the haunting sounds of children’s laughter. A heart moving and difficult thing to comprehend but that as tick follows tock and night follows day, life does follow death as the wheel of life continues to turn.
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So, here we are ready for some of the funny travel stuff. We went to the World Famous FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) in Phnom Phen. Marvelous images adorn the walls by the famous War Correspondent Al Rockoff and thoughts of people like Brian Hanrahan, Kate Ady and John Simpson reporting ‘LIVE FROM CAMBODIA’ spring to mind. But then all these images fall away, the hazy fog of a dreamy memory clears and there, smack bang in front of us, is…….a hooker! Yup, a real live hooker. Drinking a beer is a ’seductive manner’ she keeps smiling at Sara. We all immediately chuckle and giggle like small children as the lady of the night opens and closes her mini-skirted legs. Then she spies an old dude sitting there quietly reading a newspaper and in she goes. The next thing we know she’s sitting there in what I can only describe as a scene straight out of James Bond meets The Pussy Stroking Villain. (if you get my meaning) In a calm and mature manner we all pointed, let out a large ‘phwoooooar’ and ran from the famous FCC in fits of giggles.
A slightly regrettable incident followed shortly afterwards when Sara who is absolutely terrified of rats came face to face, with one of the squeaking foot long rodents. She ended up standing on a bar stool screaming suffice to say. The current rat count is so high that we have now stopped counting. Trust us all when we say that we now poke the food we are eating with our chops sticks just a little bit longer, and Ratatouille is most definitely off the menu.
Ho Chi Mihn City followed next after a flurry of border crossing and telling several nasty little Vietnamese Immigration Guards checking for ‘Swine Flu’ to bugger off in no uncertain terms when they tried to shove an ear thermometer in our ears after doing the same to a bus load of people without cleaning it. In a scene not too reminiscent of the great Mohammed Ali we were bobbing and ducking and diving trying to avoid the man attempting to stab us in the ear with his toy. After a barrage of expletives from me he finally understood our resistance and dutifully wiped the ear piece on his trousers before coming at us again like an enthusiastic Javelin chucker. Finally, we ended up with the four of us with thermometers stuffed under our armpits. Swine Flu my arse, er actually, I hope they don’t start checking that temperature!
It was at Ho Chi Mihn City Zoo that we had an awesome and frankly humbling experience. We somehow managed to break into the Zoo without paying and headed off in search of wild stuff behind bars. Within minutes we found, and I still cannot believe this, we found a keeper sitting on a bench. Nothing incredible about that? Well only the fact that he had just taken a 6 year old male Orangutan out of its cage and there it was, sitting on the bench next to him. A few people walked up and touched it, or tried to shake its hand. All I did was get close and take a few images. Each time I shot, I looked away from the camera and smile directly into the Orang’s eyes. Then it happened. The Orang who we named Ofa - Ofa Orangutan (get it?) well it looked straight back at me with with almost human like eyes and moved off the bench towards me. It reached forward and took my hand. Then in true Sir David Attenborough style or even Tarzan meets Cheetah Ofa took my hand and patted the back of my hand against its forehead. This in the monkey/ape world means ‘FRIEND’. So I did the same, then we just sort of looked at each other, nose to nose. These images speak for themselves but what then followed just got more and more wonderful. Ofa then reached his huge hands around my neck and was gripping my face, as you can see.
Having watched so many National Geographic documentaries and Wild Life On One over the years, it just sort of came naturally. Despite thinking at the start of the Round The World Tour that I would jokingly hug an Orangutan in Borneo I had no idea that this was going to happen. After the face to face experience the Orang slid off the bench and essentially sat down in my lap. With an ever increasing crowd I did not even notice apart from what was happening between my legs. After some 20 minutes of being pulled, preened, poke, pushed and licked, I said to Daniel (Sara’s BF) to try and slide in to have a cuddle. At that point it went from a unique Life On Earth experience to something that I will laugh about when I’m 60.
Ofa liked Daniel a little bit more than he liked me, quiet a lot more actually. So much more infact that if it were on video it would possibly only be given a XXX rating. Ofa stood to his full height of some 3 feet 3 inches infront of Daniel and then rolled forward and…..buried its head on his lap and would not let go. With a loud cry of ‘Ewwwww’ from the assembled crowd poor Daniel was being sexually assaulted by a Ginger Ape. Now these things are astoundingly strong at the best of times but when they have a stiffy they are on a mission, well what can I say. With both the skills of the keeper and my force in trying to prize the Apes mouth off Daniel’s nether regions we finally succeeded but not until the keeper was sadly forced to jam his thumb quite hard into Ofa’s eye socket. We all walked away looking at each other wishing that our encounter had ended on a slightly higher note. Ofa gave me a look that sort of said, ‘Er sorry for trying to hump your mate’, the keeper just sort of shrugged his shoulders as if to say, ‘this is not normally a gay monkey’, I walked away stunned and jibber and jabbering about my once in a lifetime experience. Daniel, poor Daniel just sort of rocked quietly in the corner as we all downed cold Cokes saying, ‘I’m not gay, I’m not gay, why did that monkey try to do gay things to me.
In truth, how can I put down in words just how lucky I was. Like the flight in the War Bird Catalina in New Zealand, or catching the Humpback Whales breaching on film in Ecuador, or like having only 10 people on the whole mountainside of Machu Pichu (or Mount Picachoo as Ali ‘No Alice Actually’ Day says) or even sharing a sunset with a wild Dolphin and Karen, how can I say how lucky I was. When an Orangutan which, incidentally means Old Man Of The Forest takes your face in its hands and pulls you so close to its eyes that you can smell its breath and hear it breathing, you know you are experiencing a truly wonderful and magical event. I am sure I will regale many of you with this story over a dinner table and a bottle of wine but when people ask me why I have such a huge desire to travel, let these images speak for themselves.
Next a 12 hour train journey took us up to Nha Trang where we took a PADI 5* Scubu Diving course at one of the only National Geographic Master Dive training schools in the world. A 4 day course was condensed into 3 and after some general head scratching and pencil on teeth tapping I surfaced through the 27c waters off Sea Horse Reef as a qualified PADI Open Water Diver. This is something that I have always wanted to do and now I have achieved it. So next stop is PADI Emergency First Responder.
Stupidly we opted for a night bus from Nha Trang up to Hoi An, a simple decision that is no understatement to say could have very easily been a fatal one. With as much honking and revving and screeching as the front row of the Chav Street Car Vauxhall Corsa Challenge we blasted off into the night on a sleeper bus. Picture if you will a bus with three rows of almost fully reclining seats on two levels. Then drive at 100kmh on the wrong side of the road for 12 hours with the horn going constantly, going head to head with lorries and a driver that at midnight was falling asleep at the wheel. Passing on massive coach crash that blocked the road, enough was enough, so I got up and sat in the front of the coach with the driver. I don’t speak Vietnamese and he didn’t speak English but certain translations cross many seas. So I punched him in the shoulder and suggested that he ‘wake the fluff up’, and I kept hitting him and poking him until he pulled over 20 minutes later and swapped drivers. Travelling is all about experience but we choose this option over the train because we saved $8 each. At what cost safety? At what cost a life? Suffice is to say, we will never ever do that again.
We stopped at Hoi An (the place where Jeremy Clarkson and the Top Gear Team stopped off and had their suits made). The pace of life here is where they take the urgency out of Manana Manana. Well I got straight into the diving and did my PADI Advanced Open Water Divers Exams, and after Search & Recovery, a dive to 100 feet down, deep navigation and numerous tests and exams, I passed and am now a fully qualified PADI Advanced Open Water SCUBA Diver. Whoop whoop.
So if you have never dived before, let me explain what it feels like. You know those dreams you sometimes have about flying and out of body experiences when you glide effortlessly above the ground, leaping from building to building with the ground whizzing passed you many feet below, and then you stop and hover over something, slowly you float down as light as a feather and touch down with the grace of a ballerina. (or crash head long into a rock if your buoyancy is wrong). You float in a way that makes you hover like an Astronaut and with the use of an inflatable jacket called a BCD you add or remove air whilst underwater. With noises like a space ship coming into land on the moon you touch down with a gentle puff of sand before lifting off again like you are a whispy spirit or a silent ghost (jemus who writes this stuff) well that is what SCUBA diving is like.
Daniel and myself dived a few days ago all the way down to 30 metres as part of our Advanced course. 30 metres is equivalent to 100 feet below the surface of the ocean. As they all say, ‘No one can hear you scream at 30 metres’. At that depth Nitrogen bubbles form in your blood stream and even the simplest of tasks like writing your name backwards becomes difficult to almost impossible, and actually quite funny. In almost zero visibility I managed to touch the back of my leg with my dive tank and damn nearly had a hot chocolate pudding moment in my wetsuit! On every single dive I have seen so many fish but these little fellows called Lion Fish are possibly my favourites. As for freaks of nature like Flying Gernard Fish which is a cross between a fish and a seagull!
By the way, a small interesting fact, Vietnam isn’t Vietnam. It is actually two words! It is Viet Nam. It means Cham (as in the Cham people) and Nam meaning South East Asia. A small but interesting fact. The other interesting thing here is the war crimes museums. They still hold America guilty as war criminals. They really dislike Americans (something that I am starting to realise is echoed all around the world). Americans are possibly the most despised race on the planet. Having said that, the museum was ruined for me by the absolutely ridiculous way they portrayed the Viet Nam War. It was just absolute propaganda and stitched history together like Frankenstein’s Monster. It made me quite, cross to see such twists of facts and lies to tell a story. But then having said that, when you see what the good old US of A did with Agent Orange you sort of see both sides of the story. I’m sure if you think of Viet Nam and stare out of the window and try to imagine what it is like you will possibly not be able to do it without hearing the words distantly in your mind like, ‘Jonny on the wire’, or ‘the gooks are out there’ or even, ‘Nam, Man you weren’t there, you don’t know what it was like man’ (whilst tugging at your hair), but of course, who could think of Viet Nam without hearing Robin Williams as Adrian Cronauer yelling, ‘Goooooooooooood Morninggggg Vieeeeeettttt NAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAM from the DZ to the DNZ on the Ho Chi Minh trail and Hanoi Hanna’.
So we only have about 55 days left of our Around The World Tour 2008-2009. We have passed the 300 days on the road marker and to be honest are absolutely terrified about coming back. Blondie wants to see all her friends again and so do I, but I just do not know how I am going to settle. Again in the words of Tom Paxton ‘I Can’t Help But Wonder Where I’m Bound’. Wedding plans are still in the offing so more updates on that next time. As for us, well we are still heading North up through Eastern Viet Nam and will then cross into Laos, possibly back into Cambodia, then into Thailand, then Malaysia and finally fly out of Bangkok on 15th August, so if you want a Prada/Gucci/Boss Handbag or a Boss belt or tie then get your order in, and if you like Ray Bans then here is the place.
Best regards to you all and hope all is well with you all.
Cheerio from a 36c Denang, Viet Nam
Chris and Blondie xxx
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